Applying false lashes for New Years? Here’s how!

Firstly get a proper lash glue, the best I have used is DUO lash glue. This comes in the white (that turns clear) it also comes in a dark grey colour perfect for a smokey eye. The glue that comes in the packet is poor quality and will not last the whole night.

Once you have the right glue, next is choosing the right lashes. When choosing lashes for a DIY application it’s really important to get great quality lashes. The better the quality the easier to apply and longer they will stay on.

You can tell the quality of lashes by looking at the base of the false lashes. If the base is clear or thin that is what you want. This means the lashes are light and flexible not only will they look more natural but they won’t be heavy and stab the corners of your eyes when you blink (yay!).

If you are applying falsies for the first time I would recommend getting a full strip lash (rather than individual lashes, they are tricky to apply on your own) also I would practice applying them before the day so it’s not stressful.

The brands I would recommend are “Helen Dowsley lashes”, “Smoke and Mirrors lashes” if you can’t get these then M.A.C cosmetics and Katy Perry lashes in Priceline..although I would not recommend every type of the Katy lashes for your first application, I will put a picture of the ones that are most natural below. If you still don’t know what will suit you, Helen Dowsley lashes have an app! Yep! You can try before you buy (pictured below).

So! Now you have you lashes how the on earth do you apply them?!

1. Do your eye shadow and liner before application.

2. Curl your lashes then put a light application of mascara just to cover any eyeshadow fall out.

3. Before putting glue on the lashes gently remove them from their container and place them on your eye lid to measure if they are to long for the length of your eye. If they are longer than the length of your eye use nail scissors to make them shorter. This is referring to the strip of the lash not the actual lashes themselves. Trim the outer length of the lash, then measure the piece you cut off and do the same to the other lash.

4. Get your DUO lash glue and squeeze a little on the back of your hand, get the end of a make-up brush dip it into the glue and run the glue along the base of the false lash (don’t be heavy handed with glue). Dot a tiny bit more glue on either end of the lash this helps them to stay stuck even when you blink.

5. Wait for the glue to dry a tiny bit before applying the lash, you can tell because it starts to go from white to yellow before turning clear. When it starts getting a bit yellow you are ready to apply. Take your time, line it up and make sure it’s as close to your lash line as possible, use a cotton bud to push them right in close.

6. If something goes wrong, you may have to take them off and repeat the application again. Make sure you peel off any glue that is on the false lashes. Before trying again.

7. Once your lashes are on, it’s important to make sure they blend in with your eye makeup. I find the best way to do this is to use gel eyeliner and and angle brush apply eyeliner along your lash line.

And voila! Lashes! See it’s not to hard. New Years makeup in my opinion should be super fun party makeup, as well as long lasting and kiss proof πŸ˜‰ so finish off the New Years look with a kiss proof lip stain like Benetint, and their Moonbeam highlighter on your cheeks..gorg!

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Do’s and Don’ts Make-up Edition

Here are some quick make-up do’s and don’ts to avoid those make-up no no’s and to boost your everyday make-up routine πŸ™‚

-Do slightly wet your Eyeshadows to increase intensity of colour (experiment with this, as some shadows work better than others).

-Don’t keep make-up in hot areas, it will cause lipsticks to melt and foundations to change colour and separate.

-Do make sure you test make-up before purchasing.

-Don’t use eye drops that are whitening for more than one or two days, these drops have bleach in them. This whitens the eyes temporarily but causes them to be even more red once this wears off.

-Do check make-up expiry dates.

-Don’t share mascara with friends, it can spread infections such as conjunctivitis.

-Do use make-up brushes.

-Don’t buy make-up with out checking what it looks like in both natural and unnatural light.

-Do maintain eye brows, rather than waiting for them to grow back. Once you have your perfect shape, tweeze the stray hairs and keep them looking great all the time.

-Don’t over pluck eye brows, it’s better to have more. If in doubt see a professional (check their work first, brows are very subjective).

-Don’t experiment with your make-up before going to something important (aka a first date).

-Do experiment with make-up when you have nowhere important to be, perfect that look before rocking it.

-Don’t use foundation to create a tan.

-Do use a foundation that matches your skin tone and use a mineral powder one or two shades darker to contour and bronze the face. This adds warmth without causing that horrible foundation line.

-Do blend blend blend! This is the difference between a flawless look and an unnatural one.

-Don’t apply a liquid foundation then try and apply a powder blush.

-Do set liquids with translucent powders before trying to apply a powder brush, this will insure it doesn’t catch on the liquid and become patchy and uneven.

-Don’t get caught in a make-up rut, go check out what’s new at counters, read all the beauty trend sections and watch make-up tutorials online.

-Do have fun with make-up, relax and read my blog πŸ˜‰ xxx

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Keep your make-up amazing for the whole day.

Firstly it’s so important to set your foundation. Use a translucent powder (such as make-up for ever HD powder) after applying foundation, concentrating on areas that you become oily through the day.

People always ask me how to keep their make-up on? To be honest if you are a human, make-up will come off (if you’re an alien, I’m sure you have invented something amazing). Taking a few minutes after eating to touch up makes a whole world of difference!

This is what I have in my bag to keep fresh for the day..

Laura Mercier “Secret Camouflage” concealer (yes I am mentioning this product again) this is perfect for the bag because there is two shades to cover any redness or under eye darkness.

Essence “I love extreme” mascara. I love big lashes and I re apply this to keep them big throughout the day.

Lanolips “101 ointment” for a moisturising lip treatment and any other dry skin problems.

Ysl “glossy stain” in number 17. I keep this in my bag for when I want a colour pick me up.

Mac “so sweet, so easy” cremeblend blush. Because it’s a cream blush it can double as a pink matte lip colour.

Cortas “orange blossom water” I pour this into a small spray bottle, I use this instead of perfume and it’s also great to spritz on the face during the day to freshen up. (Bottle pictured below).

Palmers ” cocoa butter hand cream” to keep my hands soft, as well as protected from the sun whilst driving.

It also helps to keep a pressed powder with a bit of coverage in your bag, this will cover discolouration and absorb oil (Mac studio fix is good for this). If you don’t want to add coverage and don’t like powder, the smashbox antishine is a cream that takes away shine through the day. This product can also be used as a primer if you are extremely oily.

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The magic wand of makeup (it literally takes away wrinkles).

A common question I am asked by clients is “can you get rid of my wrinkles??) closely followed by a chuckle then a shocked face when I reply with an enthusiastic “yes!”.

Eyesentials under eye enhancer is a product that literally swipes away wrinkles like magic..I must admit whilst watching the ads for eyesentials on t.v I was a bit skeptical, but my god was I curious. Coincidentally I ended up doing makeup for two of their ads and it work before my eyes. I had to have it! ( link to view one of the ads below)

They were kind enough to send me a box and I have not stopped using it ever since. This product was invented in the 1950’s by a top Hollywood make-up artist to give screen sirens such as Ava Gardner, Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn a youthful look.

It’s a cosmetic so it’s last for the day (not forever unfortunately) I like to think of it like when Cinderella has her beautiful dress and coach till midnight, then she goes back to normal πŸ™‚
It gives an amazing youthful smoothness to the under eyes. My clients look fresh and I’ve had a lot of compliments on their looks especially when it’s used for t.v.

I have tested the effects on my mum and photographed them especially for you guys so you can see the results (picture below).

Celebrity fans include:

Sonia Kruger
David Wenham (who loved Eyesential for his flash back scenes in the hit series Killing Time)
Underbelly and City Homicide use it for their actors
Caroline O’Connor
Holly Valance
Gina Riley (for Kath and Kim)
Neighbour’s stars and a whole range of news readers and morning show presenters loving Eyesential, and that’s just to name a few!

Channel Nine Ad (make-up and hair by me)

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Keep it fresh! Tool and make-up maintenance.

Why isn’t that mascara looking good anymore? Why do my makeup brushes look dull and barely work? Nothing has changed! Well to you I say again πŸ™‚ …

One of the main parts about keeping makeup looking fresh and beautiful is looking after your tools. This means washing brushes and keeping an eye on makeup expiry dates.

Mascara: Approx every 3 months (I’d make it three months at the absolute maximum in terms of performance you will get).

Mascaras need to be replaced regularly because they can become breeding grounds for bacteria. Also when air gets into the container it drys up and gives a poor performance compared to when it was first purchased it (don’t pump your mascara wand up and down into the container this will put more air in, it’s better to swirl the wand whilst in the container. This grabs the mascara that has been pushed to the side).

Foundation: Approx 12 months

Powder foundations last longer than liquids, the ingredients of liquids can separate especially if kept in warm areas (best to keep your foundations in cool places). If left in the heat it can also change colour and smell.

Lipsticks: Approx 12 months

Air drys some lipsticks quicker than others. Glossy ones tend to last longer whereas matte ones dry out quicker. If the lip sticks consistency changes, it stops sticking to your lips properly or the fragrance differs that is a definite sign that it’s done!

Brush cleaning!

This part of your routine is super important. It means that the eye shadow, powder or blush you use will be the true colour you choose rather than a mix of what you wore yesterday and what you chose to wear today. Makeup brushes are a ground for bacteria to grow, keeping them clean can be extra important to people that suffer from acne.

If they are you personal brushes and you use them for the same colours everyday you can wash your brushes once a week. If they are brushes used on different people they MUST be cleaned before touching another face, if you don’t clean them you can seriously risk infecting someone with something such as conjunctivitis (this is why you never share mascaras and make-up artists use disposable mascara wands).

Some people choose to use an alcohol based brush cleaner, the brushes are sprayed or dipped into the alcohol and brushed on a tissue until makeup is removed. These are handy because the alcohol drys very quickly. In my case I prefer to use this as a last case scenario for cleaning my brushes. I use an anti bacterial soap under super hot water then dry with a hair dryer between uses, I believe this is the most hygienic way to do it.

If they are you personal brushes and you are doing this routine once a week, I would use an anti bacterial soap under hot water, rinse then apply hair conditioner. Leave conditioner on the brushes for about five minutes rinse realllly well under hot water (this makes them super soft πŸ˜‰ )

Always make sure to pull the brushes through your fingers to remove excess water and get them back into the shape they came in so they dry properly. Leave to air dry on a paper towel and they will be as good as new!

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An interview with Stephen Moleski Hollywood make-up artist to the stars.

Stephen Moleski is one of my favourite make-up artists, I came across him when I was curious about how Kim Kardashian acheived her iconic make-up look. I found a video Stephen had done. It was a step by step tutorial with a bare faced Kim (video below) not only did he start from absolute scratch but he showed exactly what products he used and was so incredibly generous with his information and so so talented.

Considering Stephen is based in L.A the thought of meeting him had never crossed my mind. I began working on the second season of xfactor doing makeup, I heard through the grapevine that Mel. B (scary spice) was having her own make-up person coming from L.A.

I showed up for work as usual and walked past the judges make-up room. You would never believe my surprise when I saw Stephen Moleski..I almost died. He was just as lovely and generous in real life and now I am lucky enough to be able to interview him just for you guys πŸ™‚

What are the top products you couldn’t work without?

Products I have to have are Beauty Blenders and my lashes (www.smokeandmirrorsbeauty.com) and YSL powders.

Your lash line is so amazing, you even designed some especially for Kim Kardashian. She’s one lucky girl (lashes pictured below). Who was your mentor?

Kevyn aucoin, he was my inspiration from the day I met him!

You are so lucky to have met him! What is your favourite job you have ever done?

Doing what I love, making women feel amazing!

So every job is your favourite job because you make women feel beautiful?

Yep!

Aww that’s awesome. What inspired you to become a makeup artist?

I fell into makeup artistry by luck, but I studied art as my major for 18 years before that.

Any advice to the everyday girl for her makeup application?

Keep it simple and use sunscreen always!

That great advice, especially for girls in Australia! Thanks for your time πŸ™‚

Smokey Eye Tutorial with Kim Kardashian

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Pimples, Dark under eyes and Redness be gone!

There are many different types of concealers. Some have colours such as green and red as their undertone, these are designed to correct discolouration. Red undertones are designed to correct the bluey undertone of the under eyes. Green undertones go over redness to neutralise it.

Then there are the other types that match your skin colour but just have that extra bit of coverage that your foundation may not provide. It’s better to have a light foundation for the whole face and touch up pimples with concealer rather than cover your face in heavy foundation. Better yet only use Concealers to cover discolouration and wear no foundation πŸ™‚

Secret Camouflage by Laura Mercier

This is a must have in my bag at all times! It has two sides one has a green undertone and the other has a red undertone, so it’s perfect for covering any problem. Laura Mercier grew up in France where men/boys apparently constantly touch women’s faces, they hated the feel of makeup. She formulated this concealer to be oil free and long lasting for that very reason! What us women do huh!

Bye bye Under Eye – by IT Cosmetics

This is full coverage, I will put that out there now! A little goes a long way with this stuff. It’s waterproof yet surprisingly moisturising. It is also anti aging with high concentrations of vitimins A, C, E, K and Collagen. It was made with leading plastics surgeons and is clinically proven to reduce under eye puffiness, discolouration and strengthen the delicate under eye skin. Talk about a concealer that works hard!

5 Camouflage Cream Palette by Make Up For Ever

I would probably recommend this palette for a makeup artist for their kit, maybe not so much for everyday. Just because you may not use all five colours. They are smooth and creamy corrective concealers that will cover any type of discolouration. It’s also really gentle and won’t irritate even the most sensitive skin (I’ve used it on hundreds of people and haven’t had a problem).

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Top three resources girls MUST be aware of!

From website to books these have been so influential in my career..hopefully you will get the chance to look at these resources. The knowledge between them is seriously life changing (within the makeup/beauty world πŸ˜‰ )

Website: Www.lisaeldridge.com

I was told about her website a few years ago by Di Dusting (yet another wonderful make-up artist). Lisa has built the most amazing library of “how to” videos. Not only are they amazing but she goes to the trouble of listing every product underneath the video (some are not available in Australian stores but if you really want something check if http://www.strawberrynet.com has it, you may get lucky!). She is so beautiful and generous with her time and information. You will learn so much from her videos!

Book: Makeup, The Ultimate Guide – By Rae Morris

As I said I my previous post about Rae’s make-up brushes she is one of Australia’s top make-up artists. This book is a practical, honest guide to everything make-up! Not only does she tell you step by step make-ups but she shows you with step by step photos taken by the amazing Stephen Chee. She also shares tips on brushes, products, eye brows and lashes. There are so many cool and fashion forward makeup looks, one flick through this baby and you will be whipping out the eyeshadow within minutes πŸ˜‰

Book: The Original Beauty Bible – By Paula Begoun

I stumbled across this book one day in a book store and could NOT put it down! The author Paula Begoun a.k.a the cosmetics cop has written a total of 18 books ( that was the last time I checked anyway). Her mission is to break through cosmetic claims and advertising, giving you the straight realistic facts. Such as what you can really do to minimise and prevent wrinkles, control acne, bust beauty myths and lies. I was going to include a picture of the table of contents but it was about five pictures long! she literally covers everything from solutions for blackheads to solutions for cellulite. If I ever have a daughter this will be a gift that I buy her as soon as she can read! πŸ™‚

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The down low on Makeup brushes.

It doesn’t matter if you have make-up that is worth a million bucks, if you have the wrong tools (fingers are the wrong tools) it’s worthless.
In fact it can greatly improve the look of cheaper cosmetics, I guess you could compare using bad quality makeup brushes with using your feet to write instead of your hands..you can do it but it will look terrible πŸ˜‰

So! There are two types of brushes; synthetic and natural hair (usually squirrel but can be found cruelty free I will explain below). But what’s the difference? I shall explain below.

Synthetic brushes work better for creams such as:

– Concealers
– Lip products
– Foundation
– Cream blushes

Natural brushes work better for powders such as:

– Face powder
– Eyeshadows
– Powder blush
– Bronzer

Having said that I have favourite brands of brushes in both synthetic and natural they are “Real Techniques” (synthetic) and Rae Morris makeup brushes (natural hair).

“Real Techniques” brushes are amazing! They are completely synthetic and cruelty free. These brushes are unique for synthetic brushes in that they can be used with confidence with both creams and powders. They are extremely high quality and so cheap! Total must have!

Rae Morris makeup brushes are my favourite natural brushes not only are they beautiful quality but they are also PETA approved. The natural hair is from long hair squirrels who instead of being killed for their fur are shawn like sheep in the summer time. Not only that but Rae is one of Australia’s top makeup artists, so when it comes to designing brushes she is a true expert.

Here are some pics of my favourite brushes within these lines πŸ™‚

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Guide to bold and bright lipsticks.

From the super cheap to the mildly pricey (yet totally within a small budget) these are my favourite bright lipstick brands in order of price.

– BYS approx $3.95
– Sports girl (Pout About It) approx $9.95
– Chi chi approx $18.95
– Lime crime approx $20.50

These brands are really high in pigment for their cost (the higher the pigment the stronger the colour) these lipsticks come in a range of different textures such as cream, glossy cream and matte. The main difference for me in say BYS and Lime Crime is that the Lime Crime lipsticks actually have a pleasant scent and taste on the lips whereas the BYS don’t, it’s not a big deal because the colours can look very similar but it’s the little things (like the amazing lime crime unicorn sparkly packaging) that count.

I find the matte textured lipsticks to be a bit more fashionable but it can seem a little dry if you are used to using glosses..on that note always make sure you have applied a good lip treatment before using matte lip sticks and remove just before applying. Starting with a creamy lipstick when going bright is a good start and work your way up to a matte.

It’s always good to fill I your whole lip blot with a tissue and re apply..this will make the colour super intense and last longer. If you are going out with these lips then take a little compact mirror, the lipstick and a concealer just so you can touch up around your lips to keep the lines defined.

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